I recently traveled to Athens with Johnny and Sunshine, leaving Despina at home with my in-laws. This trip was a birthday gift for Johnny, who’s seven years old today and thrilled to experience his first flight. Watching him light up with excitement as the plane took off was priceless. I’m jotting this down for memory’s sake—though if anyone with young kids is planning a similar trip, feel free to reach out with questions!

We arrived Friday morning and headed to the Acropolis. Although we hadn’t booked tickets in advance and faced long lines, we managed to secure spots for both the Acropolis Museum and the Parthenon in the afternoon. In the meantime, we explored Syntagma Square, watched the changing of the guard, then wandered through Monastiraki and Thiseio, enjoying coffee, a light lunch, and the vibrant atmosphere.

Though it was my third or fourth time visiting the museum, sharing it with Sunshine—my resident tour guide with multiple degrees in archaeology—was, as always, special. Johnny loved the Parthenon scale models, and his fascination brought Sunshine pure joy. By the end of the tour, Johnny could even tell apart Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian architecture, to Sunshine’s delight—proof that she’s raising an aspiring geek. After a quick (and admittedly overpriced) coffee and cake break, we headed to the Parthenon. Watching Johnny marvel at the ancient temple was inspiring. By evening, we’d walked over 18 kilometers and wrapped up the day with a lovely dinner at one of my favorite vegan spots.

On Saturday, we visited Zappeion, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Panathenaic Stadium, as well as a bookshop. We then strolled through the city center with friends who live in Athens. We enjoyed a late lunch, affirming that Greeks truly excel at hospitality. After a rest and shower, we finished the night with ramen—something we don’t get much of in Cyprus.

Sunday morning was for the National Archaeological Museum. Arriving shortly after it opened, we spent nearly three hours there. It was my first visit, and I was pleasantly surprised to recognize exhibits from the history textbooks of my school days. The collections were stunning, though the museum itself has seen better days. One of the guards, seeing Johnny’s enthusiasm in the Athena statue exhibit, kindly walked us through each statue’s unique traits.

Afterward, we had a quick coffee before heading to the theater, where Johnny and Sunshine saw a children’s adaptation of an Alki Zei book, one of my childhood favorites. Meanwhile, I relaxed at a nearby café drafting this entry, and then met up with a friend in Kerameikos. Johnny and Sunshine joined us later, and we strolled through the area—a mix of abandoned Greek manors and ongoing gentrification. We enjoyed a delicious lunch and a couple of beers. Afterward, we returned to the apartment for a rest and shower, before a final evening walk and dinner to wrap up our trip.

Monday morning, Johnny experienced air travel again with just as much excitement, and I captured a video of his elation to share with family and friends.

This trip was a lovely break and a chance to create positive memories for Johnny. I’d been a bit nervous about traveling with a child, but he was eager to explore and embraced all the archaeology Sunshine shared. I also hadn’t realized how much he craved one-on-one time with us, and I’m glad we could give him this present that ended up being a joy for all three of us. As for Athens, I have my usual mixed feelings—it’s a big city full of life, yet the marks of the economic crisis are still evident on both its people and infrastructure.

This is part of a series of entries titled Fatherhood Diaries where I record thoughts on life as a new dad. Click here for all the Fatherhood Diaries.